'Country captain' chicken curry? The British legacy found in our food heritage
Have you lot heard of kedgeree? How most land captain craven back-scratch?
These are Anglo-Indian dishes that have fallen into relative obscurity in Singapore today, only are rich in tradition. The history of British presence in our region is well known, simply possibly what is less remembered is that they had an influence on our cuisine, too.
We discovered this, along with Chef Zach Elliott-Crenn of London's Michelin-starred Portland restaurant, when he was in town last week to do a iv-easily collaboration with Chef Seumas Smith of modern European restaurant Maggie Joan'south.
The issue was focused on the best of British produce brought over from the UK. But during his time here, Elliott-Crenn and Smith got an insight into how British flavours evolved into unique Anglo-Indian dishes – served up past heritage nutrient guru Chef Damian D'Silva. CNA Lifestyle had the pleasance of going along for the ride.
An early-morning moisture market sojourn acquainted us with the intricacies of Indian spices such every bit turmeric and fennel, as D'Silva took united states to his favourite spice shop at a marketplace in New Upper Changi Route.
He then took us back to his business firm, where tantalising smells of expert cooking began to emanate from the kitchen. "I savour cooking for my friends," said D'Silva, explaining that the dishes he was about to serve us originally evolved from the interaction of British wives with their south Indian domestic helpers.
First up was the kedgeree, a dish of rice cooked with smoked haddock and garnished with boiled eggs. Typically a breakfast dish, D'Silva explained that the rice comes live after you clasp a lemon over it. "I've never tasted anything like this before," said Elliott-Crenn, tucking in with enjoy.
The mulligatawny, a soup with shredded chicken, was Smith'south favourite, he said, indicating that he wouldn't listen a 2d helping at all.
And country helm chicken curry, D'Silva explained, is a dish named afterwards the captains of the ships, known equally country ships, that used to canvass the straits.
"I knew of these dishes but I didn't know of their heritage," said Smith, adding that he was inspired to try putting his own spin on the dishes. "I'd do a accept on the kedgeree. It'd exist interesting. I'd do a more western version of information technology, perhaps by doing a risotto. I might effort different versions of the eggs."
As for Elliott-Crenn, he'southward inspired to attempt making a fennel ice cream in "maybe a chocolate dessert". "The freshness of the fennel seeds in Indian cooking is just wonderful," he said.
Source: https://cnalifestyle.channelnewsasia.com/dining/british-legacy-on-singapore-heritage-dishes-chef-damian-d-silva-251111
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